Saturday, March 26, 2011

Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning



Hi, everyone



Yesterday i tried to clean the corrosion of my battery on my 1995 Toyota camry. I just unscrewed left terminals, and saw some little sparks and i scared and screwed it back. Then weird thing happened. Whenever I open the door the car will start barking and never stop, and there's small red light on the left side of the wheel, and it keeps flashing. What's worse is the engine can not start, but the radio can turn on. Can anyone help me? Thanks



Best wishes

Reply 1 : Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning



Does this car have an aftermarket alarm system? If so, it may need to be reset after disconnecting the battery.



Mike

Reply 2 : Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning



That sounds exactly like my aftermarket alarm. If you don't have the little clicker to turn of the alarm, you should be able to reach down by the hood release and push a button while turning the car on to turn off the alarm. The button my not be in the same place as mine but it should be around the underside of the dash someplace.

Reply 3 : Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning



^ +3 on that. Also... horning is the best verb ever.

Reply 4 : Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning



I found it! Problem solved Thanks everyone

Reply 5 : Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning




Quote:








Originally Posted by LynchburgCSI
View Post

^ +3 on that. Also... horning is the best verb ever.





Agreed. If it's not a real word it should be. Some usages might be....



"My neighbors #@^! car alarm keeps horning all the time."



"The guy pulled out right in front of me, so I horned him."



.

Reply 6 : Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning




Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155



Hi,



I recently registered to this forum even though I've been regularly reading some information.



I recently purchased a toyota avalon 2000 and a month late my check engine light poped up with the following codes: P1150 and P1155



The print out from autozone suggest it is bank 1 sensor 2 after reading in the forums on some places I read that this is the downstream sensor below the passenger seat so I bought a new sensor and replaced it. CLE came back on after I cleared it. After some more reading other people suggested is the sensor behind the engine so I replaced this one two.



With 2 brand new sensors I still get the CLE shall I invest another $180 and replace the last sensor?



Any ideas what else could be causing this problem. I haven't noticed a difference in the gas millage so far, but this CLE light has to go out and I will do whatever it take to remove cause it is very unpleasant plus the VSC does not function when having codes.



Any input will be very appreciated.



Thanks in advance

Reply 1 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155




Quote:








Originally Posted by kminev
View Post

Hi,



I recently registered to this forum even though I've been regularly reading some information.



I recently purchased a toyota avalon 2000 and a month late my check engine light poped up with the following codes: P1150 and P1155



The print out from autozone suggest it is bank 1 sensor 2 after reading in the forums on some places I read that this is the downstream sensor below the passenger seat so I bought a new sensor and replaced it. CLE came back on after I cleared it. After some more reading other people suggested is the sensor behind the engine so I replaced this one two.



With 2 brand new sensors I still get the CLE shall I invest another $180 and replace the last sensor?



Any ideas what else could be causing this problem. I haven't noticed a difference in the gas millage so far, but this CLE light has to go out and I will do whatever it take to remove cause it is very unpleasant plus the VSC does not function when having codes.



Any input will be very appreciated.



Thanks in advance



Bank 1 is the bank at the rear of the engine compartment; sensor 2 is the "downstream" or farthest down O2 sensor.
P1150
Air/Fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance. (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P1153
Air/Fuel Sensor Circuit Response. (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P1155
Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit. (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

Here are what the codes mean. Since you are getting both the range code and the heater code, you should check the wiring harness and plug to make sure they are not broken/burnt/melted. Did you get both the same codes back? Also, did you get a "generic" sensor that you had to wire in, or one made to fit that plug?

Reply 2 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155



1150 and 1155 are for bank 2 sensor 1. The one in the front of the engine. You replaced the wrong one.


Reply 3 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155




Quote:








Originally Posted by csaxon
View Post

1150 and 1155 are for bank 2 sensor 1. The one in the front of the engine. You replaced the wrong one.



csaxon: Crap - you mean Google lied to me this AM??? I thought you could believe everything you found on the internet!!



kminev: Sorry for the misleading information this AM. I agree you replaced the wrong one based on wrong info from autozone and internet.

Reply 4 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155



First of all a big thanks for everyones' quick answers very much appreciated....



So the sensors I replaced are: the one under the pass. seat and the one behind the engine.



From what I am reading from you replies you are suggesting that the sensor that actually needs to be changed is the one on the very front by the radiator, am I correct?



The codes I've got read bank 1 sensor 2 is that the front sensor.





Also after changed the two sensors I cleared the code the only code that came back is P1155





Can you guys help me conclude what to change I am $300 poorer so I guess will be shopping for the last sensor and the only one that is still old and changed.



Is ebay a good place/cheaper to find the sensor and what part number am I looking for to be certain I am getting the right one.



Thank you

Reply 5 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155



I replaced the sensors with bosh no the universal ones!

Reply 6 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155




Quote:








Originally Posted by bobflood
View Post

csaxon: Crap - you mean Google lied to me this AM??? I thought you could believe everything you found on the internet!!



kminev: Sorry for the misleading information this AM. I agree you replaced the wrong one based on wrong info from autozone and internet.



Auto-zones print out from the scanner suggested it bank 1 sensor 2 are they wrong ?

Reply 7 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155




Quote:








Originally Posted by kminev
View Post

Auto-zones print out from the scanner suggested it bank 1 sensor 2 are they wrong ?



Kminev: Yes, it appears that Autozone is wrong; and I found the same wrong information on the internet. The fact that you already replaced the two "Bank 1" sensors w/o fixing your problem supports that conclusion. Csaxon is correct - your codes indicate Bank 2 Sensor 1, which is the one in his picture. If you want to try and confirm this, call your Toyota dealer service department, give them the codes, and ask them what they mean.



If you want to go to the trouble, and you still have the old parts, you could take the new sensors out, return them to Autozone, tell them they did not fix your problem, and get your money back. Then get the sensor to replace Bank 2 Sensor 1 at the front of the engine.



Good luck, and let us know when you finally resolve this.

Transmission slipping issue???



Ive heard that this is common but I want to see if anyone else has experianced this before. I have an 09' TRD Sport curerently at 21000 miles. Ive had this problem since day 1 off the lot and is has not gotten any better or any worse, but just doesnt seem right. When I have driving and approaching a red light, I slow down... Then suddenly the light turns green before I make a complete stop... When i apply the gas again, my truck revs up to about 4-5k rpms before it "finds" a gear. I took it to the dealer and they told me that because our throttle is electronically controlled and does not have any actually cable linkage, that this is normal in all tacomas. It also happens after speed bumps an when I accelerate out of a right hand turn. It happens about 8/10 times when i get down to about 5-20mph, and then accelerate again. Any ideas. have you experianced this "slip" or "stuck in nuetral" feel with your transmission? Thanks in advance everyone!!

Reply 1 : Transmission slipping issue???



Has the dealer done the transmission TSB flash on your ECU yet? That should help with some of the gear "searching".

Reply 2 : Transmission slipping issue???



I Didn't know there was one. When did this release because my truck is fairly new. Do I just take it in and ask them to flash it then? Sorry I've never realized that there are tsb's that require attention that were not notified about.

I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



Ahh!! I cant find any! Tried the MTEC super white Silverstar ones and just today Nokya arctic white 7000k stage 2! All failed! They are no where white at all.



OMG! Can someone Help me look for a bulb that outputs a real white color? Any Suggestions please?



and Can I use a HID DRLs? (Just want to solidify what I heard about putting HID on DRLs/Highbeam ) I just want that WHITE LIGHT for my DRLS!



If nothing comes up, I have no choice but to splice my DRLs/Autolights. The very least thing that i want to do!



Thanks alot.

Reply 1 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



My Mtec super white are really super white.....I have no idea whatsup with yours.

Reply 2 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light




Quote:








Originally Posted by thestone11
View Post

My Mtec super white are really super white.....I have no idea whatsup with yours.



Nope.. When They are next to my HID low beams. they are NO where WHITE.. There is a hint of yellow and because of the blue tint that covers the bulb it kinda looks like a greenish yellow next to my HIDs

Reply 3 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



Try looking at luminics .





http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=900...286.m270.l1313

Reply 4 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



halogen bulbs can never be as whites as HIDs , try leds bulbs ????

Reply 5 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light




Quote:








Originally Posted by eagleone
View Post

halogen bulbs can never be as whites as HIDs , try leds bulbs ????



can they operate as a highbeam as well?

Reply 6 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



If you are familiar with the Kelvin scale, then 7000K should translate to a very bluish hue.



You might have to pay a bit more to get the color you're looking for.



Check out any of the following bulbs:



-Koito Whitebeam

-Raybrig White Blaster 4400K

-Raybrig White Sonic-S 4900K (might be a bit tinged)

-PIAA Intense White 4100K

-PIAA Xtreme White Plus

Reply 7 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light




Quote:








Originally Posted by emerson323
View Post

Nope.. When They are next to my HID low beams. they are NO where WHITE.. There is a hint of yellow and because of the blue tint that covers the bulb it kinda looks like a greenish yellow next to my HIDs






Reply 8 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light




Quote:








Originally Posted by emerson323
View Post

can they operate as a highbeam as well?



if you mean the leds im not sure most likely but i dont have much knowledge of them , you cant have hid DRL though . i would just say disable ur DRLs or disconnect the bulbs thats what i did , ur not going to find a "WHITE" light bulb for them

Reply 9 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



There is no way a halogen bulb can produce the white light you are referring to because DRLs operate at a fraction of the voltage that full high beams do. The filament just can't do it. Its like a normal incandescent bulb on a dimmer switch. At full voltage it can be made to appear whiter through glass tinting, but as mentioned it will never be the same when compared to those HID kit bulbs.



LED bulbs will appear white at nearly any voltage I suppose, but they will fall short of actually performing the way high beams should at night.



The light setups on these car is meant to be functional and actually perform very well if used for that purpose. Since you are seeking purely cosmetic lighting you will have to sacrifice real performance to get it.

Reply 10 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



do the fog light mod , disconnect your DRL bulbs and have hid fogs and then use them as DRLs , thats how im set up

Reply 11 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light




Quote:








Originally Posted by LeanBurn
View Post

There is no way a halogen bulb can produce the white light you are referring to because DRLs operate at a fraction of the voltage that full high beams do. The filament just can't do it. Its like a normal incandescent bulb on a dimmer switch. At full voltage it can be made to appear whiter through glass tinting, but as mentioned it will never be the same when compared to those HID kit bulbs.



LED bulbs will appear white at nearly any voltage I suppose, but they will fall short of actually performing the way high beams should at night.



The light setups on these car is meant to be functional and actually perform very well if used for that purpose. Since you are seeking purely cosmetic lighting you will have to sacrifice real performance to get it.



+1



sorry, but I am going to end your quest for white DRL's right now. the color temperature stated for the bulbs you are using is for 9005 bulbs full power. our car's 9005 bulb act as a day time running light as well as our high beams. if your high beams are on, then the lights will look how the manufacturer described, but when your running them low power for DRL's it'll look yellow because the bulb is underpowered. I wanted to do the same thing as you, but I realized my last resort was to just cut the wire. The car looks better without the DRL anyway and plus, being able to control your headlights is nice.



Give up

Reply 12 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



delete, wrong thread.

Friday, March 25, 2011

ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



New to the forums and have a question about some struts I purchased and installed last week. After shopping around a bit for new struts (complete assemblies) for my 2000 V6 Camry w/165,000mi, I took a chance and bought some Autopart International "Pro-Struts" off of a seller on ebay. Price was about $150 cheaper for four than Monroe Quick Struts and the seller claimed they were made in the same factory (hmmm). The order went off without a hitch and the struts were delivered to AZ from FL in one week.



First alarm bell went off when I opened the first box and saw a tag on the spring warning me that the car might appear to sit higher after installation - that this was normal and that I should allow the springs to settle.



Second alarm bell went off when I realized the rear springs had about 2.5 more coils than the originals and the fronts had 1 coil more than the originals.



Well shipping these heavy pigs back to FL was not really an option and the car is just a driver anyway so I went ahead with the install. Besides, I had never seen the Monroe Quick Struts and for all I knew they were exactly the same (anyone?). Everything went pretty smooth although out of 6 weld nuts across the 4 struts for brake line bolts, etc, 4 of them were welded in just far enough off center of the hole that I couldn't thread the bolt in. A little work with a rat tail file solved the problem but irritating nonetheless.



Sat the car back down on the ground and sure enough, it looked a quite a bit higher than before. Keep in mind I had 165,000mi on the originals and it rode like it had Jello for suspension. I took it for a test run and found the ride to be much more controlled than before (duh) and thankfully, no weird noises (it's early yet) like some have reported in the past with Quick Struts. But the car sits about 1 inch higher in the front and 1.5 - 2.0 inches higher in the back. It's noticeably higher than any other 4th gen Camry I've looked at in the last week - especially in the rear. Not quite as queer as an old muscle car with air shocks, but close. And I would describe the ride as very firm, perhaps akin to the KYB GR2 some have complained about.



Just curious what others have seen for ride height with the Monroe Quick Struts and how it compares to the Pro-Struts.

Reply 1 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



Congratulations on riding a like-new car!!!

Here is my experience:

With struts I wouldnt trust any cheapo ebay brand. I changed my struts to KYBs couple of months ago.

Initially bought the ebay pro struts at a dirt cheap price but when opened I could see they would ride too soft and leak oil easily. Took a loss of 25 dollars for shipping them back but got peace of mind.

You dont work on struts very often,rather you DONT WANT to work on struts often.

Also dont need to change strut mounts on 95/96 camry's they dont have any rubber parts in there and are a waste of money changing them IMHO.

I paid $120.00 (fronts) and $100 (rears) all KYB GR2s.

Needless to say I am riding a new car again.

Reply 2 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



I just put Monroe Quick Struts on all 4 corners today, and am totally satisfied with the ride and handling. My car was riding too low and wallowed a lot before. It is now firmer and much better controlled. Although the rear does seem a bit higher than the front as my headlight beam seems to hit closer to the front end of the car. Might just need to be re-adjusted from when the suspension was sagging.

Reply 3 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



Gas struts would ride a little high when new. The same with Gabriel Ultras. But the height should be compared to spec and not old springs/struts. That way maybe the old combo was 1" too low, for example.



I wonder if these ProStruts are Reject Monroes? As in Monroe Outlet Stores. Maybe because the nuts didn't line up?






Quote:








Originally Posted by top_down
View Post

New to the forums and have a question about some struts I purchased and installed last week. After shopping around a bit for new struts (complete assemblies) for my 2000 V6 Camry w/165,000mi, I took a chance and bought some Autopart International "Pro-Struts" off of a seller on ebay. Price was about $150 cheaper for four than Monroe Quick Struts and the seller claimed they were made in the same factory (hmmm). The order went off without a hitch and the struts were delivered to AZ from FL in one week.



First alarm bell went off when I opened the first box and saw a tag on the spring warning me that the car might appear to sit higher after installation - that this was normal and that I should allow the springs to settle.



Second alarm bell went off when I realized the rear springs had about 2.5 more coils than the originals and the fronts had 1 coil more than the originals.



Well shipping these heavy pigs back to FL was not really an option and the car is just a driver anyway so I went ahead with the install. Besides, I had never seen the Monroe Quick Struts and for all I knew they were exactly the same (anyone?). Everything went pretty smooth although out of 6 weld nuts across the 4 struts for brake line bolts, etc, 4 of them were welded in just far enough off center of the hole that I couldn't thread the bolt in. A little work with a rat tail file solved the problem but irritating nonetheless.



Sat the car back down on the ground and sure enough, it looked a quite a bit higher than before. Keep in mind I had 165,000mi on the originals and it rode like it had Jello for suspension. I took it for a test run and found the ride to be much more controlled than before (duh) and thankfully, no weird noises (it's early yet) like some have reported in the past with Quick Struts. But the car sits about 1 inch higher in the front and 1.5 - 2.0 inches higher in the back. It's noticeably higher than any other 4th gen Camry I've looked at in the last week - especially in the rear. Not quite as queer as an old muscle car with air shocks, but close. And I would describe the ride as very firm, perhaps akin to the KYB GR2 some have complained about.



Just curious what others have seen for ride height with the Monroe Quick Struts and how it compares to the Pro-Struts.




Reply 4 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



They may ride firm when the strut rod movement is slow. But when hitting bumps and such, how much do they soften? As I asked in the other thread (linked below), KYBs send them up your spine, and that's why I don't spec them. I always like to test them over rail road crossings. If the struts (for daily driving) don't absorb most of the shock at most crossings, then IMO they suck.



http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=363463






Quote:








Originally Posted by Pvt-Public
View Post

I just put Monroe Quick Struts on all 4 corners today, and am totally satisfied with the ride and handling. My car was riding too low and wallowed a lot before. It is now firmer and much better controlled. Although the read does seem a bit higher than the front as my headlight beam seems to hit closer to the front end of the car. Might just need to be re-adjusted from when the suspension was sagging.




Reply 5 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



The Monroe Quick Struts use the "Sensatrak cartridge and they have a fairly good reputation. I haven't done rail crossings or highway expansion joints yet, can't do any real open road test as I put down a few while installing. But the sponginess (is that even a word) is gone and the car handles better than with the old units.

Reply 6 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



I'll be interested to hear how the struts work out for you. I was thinking of getting ProStruts/QuickStruts for my Camry but have just kept putting it off. I've bought stuff from AutoPartsDirect2you before and was pleased with the quality and service.



I did a bit of research and I found a company called CRS that makes Pro-Struts, at least thats what they call them. The link is here: http://www.crsautomotiveparts.com/www/prostrut



I don't know if these are the same as what you got, but they say each of the struts is stamped with the CRS part number so it should be easy to check.



Keep us posted.





.

Reply 7 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry




Quote:








Originally Posted by peshwa
View Post

Congratulations on riding a like-new car!!!

Here is my experience:

With struts I wouldnt trust any cheapo ebay brand. I changed my struts to KYBs couple of months ago.

Initially bought the ebay pro struts at a dirt cheap price but when opened I could see they would ride too soft and leak oil easily. Took a loss of 25 dollars for shipping them back but got peace of mind.

You dont work on struts very often,rather you DONT WANT to work on struts often.

Also dont need to change strut mounts on 95/96 camry's they dont have any rubber parts in there and are a waste of money changing them IMHO.

I paid $120.00 (fronts) and $100 (rears) all KYB GR2s.

Needless to say I am riding a new car again.



Thanks for the tip on not changing strut mounts for 95/96.



Would you recommend changing strut mount bearings ?

Reply 8 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



I will definitely post an update after I log a few hundred miles to let you know if any noises pop up. At $450 shipped for a set of four it was hard to pass up. As for the brand, these are not "ebay" brand but are distributed by Autopart International which from what I understand has been around many years and is now possibly a division of Advance Auto Supply. They seem to cater to independent garages mostly on the east coast. I too found some reference to a CRS brand - no idea if it's coming off the same assembly line but these struts are stamped and stickered Autopart International.



BTW, I don't think these are cheap junk, in fact I suspect they ride alot like KYB GR2's - too firm for many. Monroe rejects? Maybe. Or maybe made in the same factory but with a lower tech strut (like the GR2) installed in them.



To the poster who just put Monroe Quick struts on (or anyone else with recent "Monroe Quickstruts" on a V6 Gen4 Camry), could you measure the distance from the ground to the fender lip? Mine are 27" in front and 27.75" in rear. That's with stock 205/65R15 radials. It's not terrible but it does seem a bit high. Maybe I just got used to the old saggy look and most Camry's I've been comparing to since also need struts! I can say for sure that the old rears were not enough many times when I had two good size adults in the back seat!

Reply 9 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry




Quote:








Originally Posted by top_down
View Post

I will definitely post an update after I log a few hundred miles to let you know if any noises pop up.



Mine are 27" in front and 27.75" in rear. That's with stock 205/65R15 radials. It's not terrible but it does seem a bit high. Maybe I just got used to the old saggy look and most Camry's I've been comparing to since also need struts! I can say for sure that the old rears were not enough many times when I had two good size adults in the back seat!



Well my struts are original and the height is 27" in the front, 26" in the rear. The tires are the same as your. Looks like I got a saggy rear end.



Maybe time to change the shocks, eh......





.

Reply 10 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



Thanks for the measurements! I guess it was my imagination that the front was higher with the new struts.



I'm anxious to hear what Monroe Quick Struts end up with for these dimensions, especially in the rear.



If I had to do it again I might be tempted to spend the extra $150 and do four of the Monroe's to get a little cushier ride - but I haven't experienced both so I can't really judge. I will say that I really like the Quick Strut / Pro Strut concept - these were very easy to change out with just a floor jack, a couple of jackstands and a handful of tools + torque wrench. The biggest headache of the whole job was removing the back seat and rear parcel shelf to get access to the top nuts of the rear struts. Total job took about 5-6 hours for four struts for a first timer with no air tools. Note that this is an AZ car with no rusty bolts to deal with.



I had quotes from four shops ranging from $1300-$2000 and I did it for $450 (plus an alignment charge at some point soon) - gotta love that.

Reply 11 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry




Quote:







Maybe I just got used to the old saggy look and most Camry's I've been comparing to since also need struts! I can say for sure that the old rears were not enough many times when I had two good size adults in the back seat!



Quote:







Well my struts are original and the height is 27" in the front, 26" in the rear. The tires are the same as your. Looks like I got a saggy rear end.



Maybe time to change the shocks, eh......


Sagging rear and riding low or "bottoming out" with passengers in back would be weak springs not shocks. The springs support the weight, the shocks control the speed of the springs compression and rebound, dampening the up and down movement of the car body.

Reply 12 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry




Quote:







The biggest headache of the whole job was removing the back seat and rear parcel shelf to get access to the top nuts of the rear struts.


I tried to do it without removing the package shelf. I could only get an open end wrench in there. I have a little rattle over larger bumps so I have to go back in and re-tighten the top mounts in the rear. So much for taking the lazy way out. This time out with the shelf and doing it right, damnit.

Reply 13 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



Somewhere I thought I read that there was a change in Camry rear springs because of bottoming with people in the back seat - I wonder if my May 2000 car had the earlier versions. I will say when I pulled them out I was shocked how little spring there was from the factory but felt like the replacement springs maybe were a bit overkill. My muffler will thank me...



You probably already know this, but to get the rear parcel shelf out in addition to the third brake light I had to remove the two plastic panels (I think they're called sail panels) that are above each end of the parcel shelf. There are a number of clips holding those in, a couple of which are real buggers. The key for the sail panels and the rear parcel shelf is to pull out and towards the front of the car at the same time. I broke one post that has a metal clip on it on one side, and a plastic rivet on the other side. I also removed both the left and right seat belt retractor. Even then, I had to use a socket with a universal on one nut on the drivers side.



So can I talk you into measuring the distance from the ground to your front and rear fender lip with those Monroes? If they are closer to 27" in the rear with the Monroes and ride a little smoother I would say the extra $150 might be worth it to others. If they're 27.75" and feel a bit harsh to you over the railroad tracks then I'd say these are pretty similar (if not identical) struts.

Reply 14 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



I'll measure it in a little while when I can get into the garage where the floor is level. But I have a 4 cyl. not a 6.

Recommended Toyota dealers in Georgia?



I'd like recommendations for the better Toyota dealers in Georgia, and which ones to avoid.



I am open to buying from any of the 35 dealers in Georgia, but of course prefer those closer to home in the Atlanta area. I'm looking for one that treats its customers right, is more open to offer discounts off of MSRP.



Thanks!

Reply 1 : Recommended Toyota dealers in Georgia?



I know it's a bit of a drive from where you are, but I would definitly recommend Keith Pierson Toyota Scion in Jacksonville, FL if you're looking for great customer service. My salesman went above and beyond his duties of selling me a vehicle and he even met me at the dealership on his day off when I had to get it serviced.

Reply 2 : Recommended Toyota dealers in Georgia?



Hello,

My name is Gary and I am the Parts Manager at Toyota of Newnan which is in Newnan, GA(about 30 miles south of the Atlanta airport). If you stop in or call me and let me know that you got my post from TN, I'll personally take care of you and you will not be disappointed. My staff and I love what we do and we treat all of our customers like they are guests in our home.



I look forward to hearing from you.

Gary

Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE























































I had the local Toyota dealer do a 4 wheel alignment on the car a couple of days ago. After a couple of days driving with the job 100% completed I noticed the suspension is significantly stiffer than original. With new factory springs and new KYB GR2 struts, the car is a tad stiffer than I personally would like.



Lower speeds under 50 mph - fantastic - speed bumps in parking lots, driving into gas stations, pot holes and normal pavement.



Highway speeds - smooth pavement and minor bumps are fantastic, however, on uneven surfaces, the ride becomes a tad jittery that I suspect would become somewhat tiresome on long trips.

Reply 1 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



Modestobulldog,



Thanks for posting the update. So did you buy a strut assembly that included the springs or not? If you did, does that save time on compressing them (and having to reconnect the brake lines? I am also confused as to whcih vendor you used to buy the parts and which struts you finally bought (front and rear). If I may ask, how much did you pay? Thanks.



Ron

Reply 2 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



1sttoyota is a Toyota Dealer out of Seattle Washington that has a internet business. I highly rcommend them for any factory parts. I ordered the factory Toyota springs, strut mounts and rubber spring insulators from them. Excellent prices, shipped fast and packed with lots of bubble wrap so parts arrive in perfect condiiton.



I ordered the KYB GR2's from PerformanceCenter. Don't buy anything from them, they are liars and you will be lucky if the struts arrive intact in the box. If your 99 CE is like mine, you have KYB's installed from the factory. The KYB GR2's are slightly stiffer than the factory Toyota (KYB) struts. You can rent spring compressors from Autozone for free or buy for $40 or $49 for Craftsman at Sears, just be careful and follow the suggestions in the Haynes manual. i am happy with my KYB replacement struts. Just don't order them from Performance center.



The only assemblies I found were from Monroe. I wouldn't install Monroe's on my grandson's tricycle. Of course, buying a assembly will save time, but you have limited selection of brands. Another option is to remove the struts from the vehicle and take them to a shop to replace the springs, you might save $$ and get a better quality strut.



On the rear struts, I could not figure a way to do the job without disconnecting the brake lines. To check yours, jump to Haynes section 10-10-4. disconnect the clip and check the mount. If you can romove the brake line without disconnecting the line, then by all means do so. I couldn't figure a way.



BTW, my post is to be used as a supplement to the Haynes manual. I mainly noted omissions or clarifications to the manual.

Reply 3 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



Thanks again for the information. I think it was ghost_ryder35 who recommended a web site called rockauto.com. I looked there and they had rear strut assemblies by a few manufactirers, including KYB. Here is a link:



http://info.rockauto.com/KYB/Detail.html?234059.jpg



Does that include the spring, or can you tell?



Ron

Reply 4 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



That is the strut only. Either use your old springs, mounts, boots & rubbers or order new ones. I just got back from having the car aligned at the dealer. I am 100% happy with the result. It rides & handles like a new car. Not bad for 216,000 miles.



Keep in mind, I wasn't necessarily looking for the cheapest replacement, I wanted better than the shop was going to do and thankfully, I was successful.

Reply 5 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



Updated original post for post 4 wheel alignment results.

Reply 6 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



.com can get eibach or intrax springs, as well as the kyb struts if you need them. If you have the money go with koni struts. Tire rack has H&R springs. There are a bunch of places to get springs as well as struts. I wouldnt buy monroe either.

Reply 7 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



I am done with this project. It was a learning experience. I did not want lowered springs and all I found aftermarket was lowering springs.



Are KYB GR2's sopposed to be firmer than the original KYB Nitrogen filled struts? It seems so to me.

Reply 8 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



I cant say that so much. Its more like they work better with performance springs than OEM struts do. If you have competition springs or sport springs than sure your ride will feel stiffer. The only way to tell would be to put them on with OEM springs and see.

Reply 9 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



Thanks Modestobulldog for that informative post. I truly appreciate it. Elle

FX Decals



Hey,

Any one know where I can buy the rear hatch decal for a toyota FX, not an fx16. I'm having the car painted and I would really like to be able to put new decals on the car.

Front hub bearing



My car is Avensis 1.8 2003 zzt221 and I am going to change the front hub bearing. I need some advice for that.



I found a service manual for zze130 Corolla. In this manual steering knuckle and other parts look very similar to Avensis. By EPC same bearing fits both of the cars. Can I use Corolla's manual to change the bearing?

Reply 1 : Front hub bearing



Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Replacement

Tools Required

J 42129 Wheel Hub Remover (this is a fairly generic tool you can rent from some parts stores - you may or may not need this tool - you won't know for sure until you remove the hub nut as outlined below)



Removal Procedure



Raise and support the vehicle.



Remove the tire and wheel.



Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (2), if equipped.



Remove the wheel speed sensor electrical connector from the bracket, if equipped.



Remove the front wheel drive shaft nut. Insert a drift or flat-bladed tool into the caliper and rotor to prevent from turning.

Remove the brake rotor.



(Removing the dront driveshaft nut is going to be the hardest part of the repair. It is a large nut - 36mm if I remember correctly - and torqued to over 140 ft lbs)



Use 3 wheel nuts in order to attach the J 42129 to the wheel bearing/hub.



Use the J 42129 in order to push the wheel drive shaft out of the wheel bearing/hub.



(often times the drive shaft will push out of the hub with only hand pressure - the older and more rust on it, the more likely you are to need the tool to overcome the rust)



Remove and DISCARD the wheel bearing/hub bolts. Remove the J 42129 from the hub.

Important: Ensure that the wheel drive shaft outer seal/boot is not damaged.



Remove the wheel bearing/hub and splash shield-noting the position of the shield for re-installation.



Installation Procedure



Install the wheel bearing/hub with the splash shield as noted during removal.



Caution: These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.



Install NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts.

Tighten

Tighten the NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts to 130 Nm (96 lb ft).



Install the brake rotor and caliper.



Install the front wheel drive shaft nut. Insert a drift on a flat-bladed tool into caliper and rotor to prevent the rotor from turning.

Tighten

Tighten the front wheel drive shaft nut to 160 Nm (118 lb ft).



Important: Ensure that the connector clip engages the bracket properly.



Install the wheel speed sensor electrical connector to the bracket, if equipped.



Connect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (2), if equipped.

Install the tire and

Lower the vehicle.

Jump cable reversed



I got my 1989 corolla jump cable reversed and it won't start.

I got new battery and replaced a 10 amp under dashboard fuse. All the engine compartment fuses are OK. Head lights and emergency light can be turned on. But not the interior dome light. No light on the instrument panel except the bettery light. No solenoid clicking sound nor any other sound.



What shall I check at this point? And how?



Thank you in advance.



Michael

Reply 1 : Jump cable reversed



not knocking ya but did u check the once right on the pos. battery pole cable? double check all the fuses in the engine bay and in the kick panel related or not, never know. also look into relays not sure, not much experience in electrical but thats what i would start with. hopefully someone with a bit more knowhow can shime in. good luck

Reply 2 : Jump cable reversed



Check the three fusible links on positive battery cable. Disconnect cable from battery . To remove the links the bottom of holder opens up and each one is secured in place with screws which complete the electrical connection for each circuit that is protected. Check them with an ohmeter. Advance carries replacements. Most auto parts stores should as well.

Reply 3 : Jump cable reversed



I think you blew the ECU... if you changed everything possible after the booboo and it still doesn't start, chances are the ECU is gone.



keep checking fuses, you might even have to replace them all... how about the relays? you may have blown a relay.

Reply 4 : Jump cable reversed



I replaced both pos and neg battery cables. But same.

How do I check relays?

Reply 5 : Jump cable reversed



The way i do this is by taking a long peace of vacuum hose and having someone turn know the circuit to a particular relay i.e. Turn signals relay to turn signals and holding one peace of the hose to the relay and the other to my ear like headphones. If its working u should hear it clicking. Or u could use a stetascope or however u spell that doctor thing to listen to ur heart..... ::-D:



anyone have better idea. A multimeter may work if u have one

situational grinding noise



Hello everybody,



First post here. I have a 2004 Corolla CE 5 spd, that I absolutely love. With a 60mi commute and crazy gas prices this car has both saved me money and headaches.



Recently, I have noticed a grinding noise coming from somewhere in the engine compartment. It sound like a bad bearing. The only problem is it only occurs with the clutch engaged and the transmission in gear. If I disengage the clutch or shift to neutral, then the noise goes away almost immediately. I was thinking it were a wheel bearing, but now I'm confused as it only happens in gear.



Please help!

Reply 1 : situational grinding noise



Synchros are a bit weak in the manual transmissions. Bearings and shafts are a known issue too, but mainly on the 03s. When was the last time the fluid was replaced and what type of fluid was used? 75W-90 GL4? Fluid level ok? Are you a lead foot or hard on the clutch? I suspect it is a bad bearing in the tranny.

Reply 2 : situational grinding noise



It does sound like the transmission's input bearing... It holds only 2 quarts of 75W-90 which should be replaced every 40000 miles.

What mileage are you at?

Reply 3 : situational grinding noise



I am at 158k, I bought it at 59k. I have never changed the manual fluid until the other night. I thought it was a closed system, my bad. The fluid looked dark and used but was definitely there. I bought mobil one 75W-90 GL4.



I mentioned the 120 round trip commute. I shift maybe 10 times; its all interstate. I do not ride the clutch, rest my foot on the clutch pedal or lean on the shifter.



About the input shaft bearing... Can I do that myself, or is it a complete rebuild. Is that bearing lubricated by the gear oil? If so is it a bearing/seal?



If its a rebuild do you guys know about how much I am looking at?

Reply 4 : situational grinding noise



Tranny bearings are all lubricated by the gear oil... You could save some labor if you can remove the transmission and take it to a rebuild shop. At your mileage, you may as well replace all bearings and synchros while you're at it. You'll also be at your clutch and release bearing if they need to be replaced. The new oil you just put in that has to be drained again will actually do a good job of cleaning it out for the rebuild.

Let me know if you want the 2004 Corolla repair manual free download.



http://cobratransmission.com/index.p...x&cPath=2_1940



http://www.mechanicadvisor.com/nc/ra...air-shops.aspx



http://madstyle1972.com/Repair/41/20ihge1a/conponen.pdf

Reply 5 : situational grinding noise



Thanks Invader,



I would definitely like the download; very much appreciated.



I found a few salvaged trannys with about 20 - 35k on them for about $1500. My mechanic said he could swap them for about $250, which includes a clutch install. I was thinking this may be a good route as it will minimize the cars downtime, and I could rebuild the old tranny and put it on ebay or CL. If I take it to a shop it may be down a week and I have a rebuilt tranny for about $1500 to $2000.



Is my thinking way off? I'm really stressed right now. Daily driver and not a lot of cash to go around!!!!! What happens if I turn up the radio and keep driving?



Thanks!

RPM'S drop to 400-500 after warm-up ?



Hey Guys/Gals,



Just wondered if anybody had the following problem & how they resolved it.



1995 Camry, 4 cylinder...



The car cranks like its brand new when you crank it up in the morning or anytime it hasn't been started in a couple hours. After warm-up, turn the car off and at next start-up the RPM'S drop so low that the engine tries to die (400-500rpms) It takes a moment or two for the RPM'S to adjust.



Can anybody suggest a definite solution ?





jim

Reply 1 : RPM'S drop to 400-500 after warm-up ?



have you tried cleaning the TB & IAC?

Reply 2 : RPM'S drop to 400-500 after warm-up ?



TB yes. Could you tell me what is the IAC ?

Reply 3 : RPM'S drop to 400-500 after warm-up ?



Idle Air Control valve. It's mounted under the TB, you probably could see the opening in TB leading to IAC valve. This valve is a sort of air bypass around the throttle plate, completely controlled by ECU electrically. If it's dirty, then idle speed is rough and sometimes shoots high when it should be low or vice versa, depending on how the dirty valve sticks.



might be worth checking and/or cleaning first. common trouble on gen3/4 camry.



other than that, how the car feels when driving? any maintenance history? any tune up done?

Reply 4 : RPM'S drop to 400-500 after warm-up ?



Yeah...I did spray some carb cleaner back there, but i may need to re-visit that as i ran out during job.



Car fells great when driving...could have a little better mpg...Has 260k on it...Had new distributor 10k ago...new plugs & wires then just because...(I may get buddy to check timing). Can the IAC be removed and cleaned to any good effect ?

Reply 5 : RPM'S drop to 400-500 after warm-up ?



"Can the IAC be removed and cleaned to any good effect ?"



Yes it can, but I would first try spraying throttle body cleaner liberally down in to the port in the base of the throttle body that leads to the idle air control valve. That usually cures the problem. If it doesn't, then you can go to removing the idle air control valve for further cleaning. Here's a good DIY on the cleaning process for the 4 cylinder 5SFE engine.



http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=158097



Mike

Reply 6 : RPM'S drop to 400-500 after warm-up ?



follow the above basic DIY on cleaning TB & IAC with Sea Foam Deep Creep and a toothbrush.



if you suspect the IAC to be faulty, you can remove the whole TB and then unbolt IAC from it and clean thoroughly:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=361673

Reply 7 : RPM'S drop to 400-500 after warm-up ?



IAC most likely. Just clean it or if you want to be safe, get a new one.

Reply 8 : RPM'S drop to 400-500 after warm-up ?



Thanks to all you who have responded !



All those links have helped a lot !



Jim

Reply 9 : RPM'S drop to 400-500 after warm-up ?



Removing and disassembling the IAC usually yields better results. The carbon on the bottom of the rotary valve is hard to clean off. Check this DIY too:



http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=356544



If the IAC doesn't improve it then check the engine coolant temperature sensor as well. It's the 2-wire thing on the water outlet pipe.






Quote:








Originally Posted by JimBowNut
View Post

Hey Guys/Gals,



Just wondered if anybody had the following problem & how they resolved it.



1995 Camry, 4 cylinder...



The car cranks like its brand new when you crank it up in the morning or anytime it hasn't been started in a couple hours. After warm-up, turn the car off and at next start-up the RPM'S drop so low that the engine tries to die (400-500rpms) It takes a moment or two for the RPM'S to adjust.



Can anybody suggest a definite solution ?





jim




quick bolt pattern question



I drive a 94 camry and was thinking about picking up these two rims with tires on them that are from a gen 5.



Just wanted to check if you guys' bolt patterns are still 5x114.3...



Does anyone know if they would fit? I'd be going from 195/70R14 to 205/60r15 so the overall radius of the wheels will be the same.



I don't have any idea about the offset on the rims..

Reply 1 : quick bolt pattern question



Bolt pattern is the same across all Gens of Camry's. They should fit, but it depends on offset. More than likely will though

Passenger Side Power Window Problem



Wondering if anyone is experiencing the same issue as me.. My passenger side power window does not go down when i push the passenger door power button. But when i use the driver side panel to bring down the window it works. Then I try the passenger button again and it works.. It's intermittent..sometimes it work and sometimes it doesn't.. It usually doesn't work just after I start my car. Anyone experiencing the same issue? Thanks for replying.

Reply 1 : Passenger Side Power Window Problem



Not on the HL for me, but the Tacoma double cabs have that problem with the rear passenger door's window switch (intermittent from rear door but works from driver's door all the time). I've experienced it first hand and it's a common problem with them. Take it in if you're still under warranty.

Center High Mount Stop Light



Does anyone have a Center Hight Mount Stop Light laying around? I want to install my TRD Sportivo spoiler, but I have to hook up the CHMSL. I have an XRS, so I don't think it came with one, since the OEM spoiler has it built in.



The instructions for installing the normal deck spoiler say to just remove the CHMSL and discard, so hopefully someone has it laying around.



Hit me up, Please!

Reply 1 : Center High Mount Stop Light



You could try eBay, a online dealer or your local dealer if nobody comes around

Engine problems PLZ HELP!!!



ok, i have a 1988 Toyota pickup 4x4 22-re EFI, I bought the truck about two months ago and the truck has been great so far and running fine. Then the other day i was riding and i noticed the Clutch Start Cancel button while driving the down the road, then my truck has start running really bad at first it would just kinda lurch going down the road and then it would run bad then all of a sudden it would jerk and it would start running fine again and i would have all my power back for a couple miles untill it started running bad again. Now the truck is running so bad when i come to a stop the truck just dies. I tried dicounting the battery, pulling fuses out, Idk what else to do. Now the truck seem like the clutch isnt working while driving and i try to change gears i have to force the gears to change. WHen i took the fuse for the dash temp and gas gauge out the truck started running a little better but when i put it back in its starts running really bad. Plz someone help i have to drive this truck ever day to work.

MPG Computer 2011 Prerunner



I know this topic has been covered time and time again, but I have to ask. I just got my 2011 Prerunner TRD Sport. I love the truck - huge upgrade from my '93 that died many years ago. I have to admit, I miss having a MPG computer / miles till empty / ...... computer. I have seen many people buying the scanguage II, which is a great alternative, but I would like to try to keep more to the toyota color scheme and look. It seems like if this devise just plugs into the trucks computer system there should be other options available.



Has anyone tried getting any parts from other Toyota models or Lexus models to get this option? I am wondering if you could get one and pull out the LCD screen to keep the red lighting, and mount somewhere in the dash for the same look.



My truck is less than one week old, and already making my mod list.



Thanks

JN

1974 Toyota Corona MKII 4-dr



Hi I have a 1974 Toyota Corona MKII 4-DR.

It has been garaged since 1981...but has blown engine.

Toledo,Ohio area.

Please contact me for inquiries.

-Derringer-

Reply 1 : 1974 Toyota Corona MKII 4-dr



Welcome to the forums! Sounds like you've got quite a gem there. I assume that you're selling it judging by what your post says. If that's the case, I'd recommend starting a thread in the Vehicles For Sale forum.



Best of luck!

Reply 2 : 1974 Toyota Corona MKII 4-dr



Sir can you send photos of the car and inf to my eamil jmalaret@hotmail.com???? Thanks!!!

Reply 3 : 1974 Toyota Corona MKII 4-dr



Would you please be able to send some pictures to me? i pm'd you

Cigarette lighter always on - how to?



I checked for old threads on this and didn't find anything. I want my cigarette lighter outlet to *always* be on. A lot of other cars are like that, but not my Camry. I'd like to be able to leave my phone or iPod plugged in to charge while the car is sitting in the parking lot, because I sometimes forget to plug 'em in at home.



Is this relatively easy to do?... what's the best way?... just run a new wire (with inline fuse) to it?... cut a wire & bypass whatever relay is shutting it off? I'd check out the wiring diagram myself, but I'm feelin' lazy, plus I figure you all are pretty smart - might think of something I'm overlooking.



edit: ACK!!!... I meant to post this in the gen 3/4 Camry forum - mods please move.

What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



Hello all - I thought I would create a fun poll for a labor day weekend. I am a 44 year old father of three who is loving his new Corolla S 5 speed. I recently moved out of my '05 Tacoma with 170k miles (gave to my college son). I have a 95 mile round trip to work each day and was spending over 400 dollars per month in gas so wanted something that would save money, be reliable and still be fun.

Reply 1 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



Representing the early 90's.

Reply 2 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



25

Reply 3 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



18

Reply 4 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



20

Reply 5 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



I have had a lot of cars and Toyotas have been the best.

Reply 6 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



19

Reply 7 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



22

Reply 8 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



19

Reply 9 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



woohoo just turned 21 cant wait for 25 so my insurance go down

Reply 10 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



25

Reply 11 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



45 is the new 25 !

Reply 12 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



21






Quote:








Originally Posted by creslayer
View Post

woohoo just turned 21 cant wait for 25 so my insurance go down





I hear that!!! lol

Reply 13 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



23

Reply 14 : What is our age group profile - Gen 10 Corolla



I'm 48 and feeling old.........

extended steering colum



I have a 2009 limited and the extented steering column will not stay locked. Does any one else have this problem? The dealer says there is no problem with it. Thank you.

Reply 1 : extended steering colum



This is the first time I've heard of this issue.

Reply 2 : extended steering colum



That happened to me a few times in my '05. The locking lever seem to disengage easily, but I figure I must have moved it on accident.

Reply 3 : extended steering colum



Same problem here. It seems to come loose easily on its on. sometimes I might be bumping it when using the tilt wheel lever by mistake. not sure, but it really hurts your knee to bump it when its down and I am getting out of the car

Reply 4 : extended steering colum



Yes same problem on my 06 Avalon I keep finding the lever in the down position but it's not open enough for the column to move

Reply 5 : extended steering colum




Quote:








Originally Posted by glangfield
View Post

I have a 2009 limited and the extented steering column will not stay locked. Does any one else have this problem? The dealer says there is no problem with it. Thank you.



I have a 2005 XLS with 25000 miles on it and started having same problem

every 100 miles about 1000 miles ago. Dealer says no problem....

Reply 6 : extended steering colum



I was having the same problem with my 2006. The dealer checked it out twice and said that they couldn't replicate the problem, never heard of it, etc. I just lived with it since it wasn't that big of a deal to remember to push the locking lever up every so often.



One day, I hit a nasty pothole when the lever must not have been all the way locked in. The resulting impact unlocked the steering column and caused the column to collapse. The wheel slipped out of my hands and I almost hit the car in the next lane by the time I was able to grab it and swerve back.



Enough was enough.



I took the car back to the dealer, along with printouts from the net where other people were complaining about the problem. I told them it was a serious safety issue and I was not messing around with it anymore.



Two days later, I drove away with a brand new steering column under the extended warranty. The new one locks TIGHT! It hasn't budged.



Hope this helps!

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Trouble :(



OK,

so i have talked about this before but i didn't want to bring an old thread back to life.



I have bought a 5afe flywheel and lightened it etc, so today i got the chance to check if it was the right fitment on a 4afe clutch from an ae111 corolla.



The dowels on the flywheel didn't match up to the holes on the clutch plate, but the clutch was for an ae101,i thought the 5afe's and 4afe's used the same clutch so they should use the same flywheel?.



But my question is will the 5afe flywheel from the ae91 fit too my ae92 corolla?.

I will be very appreciative if i get a yes it will fit



Thanks

Greg

Reply 1 : Trouble :(



Does Anybody have a clue?

Reply 2 : Trouble :(



there are 2 sizes of C series clutches... 200mm and 212mm....



so, it's possible your car had one size and the flywheel is the other. You will just need the clutch kit to match that flywheel.... and you're good to go. trans splines and starter ring gears are the same, so there shouldn't be other issues.

Reply 3 : Trouble :(



thanks toyotaspeed90 i did some more research and found this... http://trdforums.com/community/threa...eel-make.4264/ ..... which you posted in, in 2005 lol.



So the 4afe from the 1993+ ae111 corolla that i tested it on had the 212mm flywheel and clutch that's why the clutch didn't bolt up so the 5afe's must have the 200mm flywheel which is a relief for me, i didn't waste my money.

DIY Power Locks Conversion Corolla 93 - 97



This is brief tutorial on how to convert front manual door to power locks. The simple tutorial below shows few picture of the install. Everyone is welcome to add to tutorial to make it better. I haven't seen anyone do this yet so trying to contribute. This is brief example that power lock conversion can be done, I am not responsible for anything if anyone tries to attempt this. Conversion for front doors only took about 4 hours.



Tools Needed:

-Power Lock Kit

-16 Gauge Wiring

-Soldering Iron / Solder

-Shrink tubing/ Electrical tape

-Basic tools to take of door panel and center console to run wiring



Kit that I got from eBay













FRONT DRIVER SIDE DOOR


1. Im going to start with drivers side door because it is the difficult one.



You can reference how to take of door panels below thanks to these people.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=332256

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=64414



2. I decided to also put in some raamat that I had left over.











3. Wiring that came with the kit was a mess so I rewired the whole thing. I began by just cutting of the master cylinder and soldering all the connections and extending the wires so they will reach to the inside of cabin. Purpose for that was to make it as much water tight as I can.











4. Prepare the door by cutting out the hole for the latch to hook onto the door lock. Below picture shows also the placement of where the cylinder goes.















5. After everything is mounted run the wires into the cabin and hook everything up to the module.

























PASSENGERS SIDE DOOR


1. Same concept as the drivers side door.























Powering the System +12V

1. This kit needs constant 12 volt power source. Battery seemed to be the easiest place to get that from. Just ran wire directly to the battery and enclosed it in the white tubing.
















Reply 1 : DIY Power Locks Conversion Corolla 93 - 97



good write up. Didn't think it would be so cheap to buy the parts. Confusing how to hook up the actual lock to the piston thing.



Looking forward for the back pictures.