Saturday, March 26, 2011

Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning



Hi, everyone



Yesterday i tried to clean the corrosion of my battery on my 1995 Toyota camry. I just unscrewed left terminals, and saw some little sparks and i scared and screwed it back. Then weird thing happened. Whenever I open the door the car will start barking and never stop, and there's small red light on the left side of the wheel, and it keeps flashing. What's worse is the engine can not start, but the radio can turn on. Can anyone help me? Thanks



Best wishes

Reply 1 : Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning



Does this car have an aftermarket alarm system? If so, it may need to be reset after disconnecting the battery.



Mike

Reply 2 : Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning



That sounds exactly like my aftermarket alarm. If you don't have the little clicker to turn of the alarm, you should be able to reach down by the hood release and push a button while turning the car on to turn off the alarm. The button my not be in the same place as mine but it should be around the underside of the dash someplace.

Reply 3 : Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning



^ +3 on that. Also... horning is the best verb ever.

Reply 4 : Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning



I found it! Problem solved Thanks everyone

Reply 5 : Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning




Quote:








Originally Posted by LynchburgCSI
View Post

^ +3 on that. Also... horning is the best verb ever.





Agreed. If it's not a real word it should be. Some usages might be....



"My neighbors #@^! car alarm keeps horning all the time."



"The guy pulled out right in front of me, so I horned him."



.

Reply 6 : Touched Battary and Engine can not start, keep horning




Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155



Hi,



I recently registered to this forum even though I've been regularly reading some information.



I recently purchased a toyota avalon 2000 and a month late my check engine light poped up with the following codes: P1150 and P1155



The print out from autozone suggest it is bank 1 sensor 2 after reading in the forums on some places I read that this is the downstream sensor below the passenger seat so I bought a new sensor and replaced it. CLE came back on after I cleared it. After some more reading other people suggested is the sensor behind the engine so I replaced this one two.



With 2 brand new sensors I still get the CLE shall I invest another $180 and replace the last sensor?



Any ideas what else could be causing this problem. I haven't noticed a difference in the gas millage so far, but this CLE light has to go out and I will do whatever it take to remove cause it is very unpleasant plus the VSC does not function when having codes.



Any input will be very appreciated.



Thanks in advance

Reply 1 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155




Quote:








Originally Posted by kminev
View Post

Hi,



I recently registered to this forum even though I've been regularly reading some information.



I recently purchased a toyota avalon 2000 and a month late my check engine light poped up with the following codes: P1150 and P1155



The print out from autozone suggest it is bank 1 sensor 2 after reading in the forums on some places I read that this is the downstream sensor below the passenger seat so I bought a new sensor and replaced it. CLE came back on after I cleared it. After some more reading other people suggested is the sensor behind the engine so I replaced this one two.



With 2 brand new sensors I still get the CLE shall I invest another $180 and replace the last sensor?



Any ideas what else could be causing this problem. I haven't noticed a difference in the gas millage so far, but this CLE light has to go out and I will do whatever it take to remove cause it is very unpleasant plus the VSC does not function when having codes.



Any input will be very appreciated.



Thanks in advance



Bank 1 is the bank at the rear of the engine compartment; sensor 2 is the "downstream" or farthest down O2 sensor.
P1150
Air/Fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance. (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P1153
Air/Fuel Sensor Circuit Response. (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P1155
Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit. (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

Here are what the codes mean. Since you are getting both the range code and the heater code, you should check the wiring harness and plug to make sure they are not broken/burnt/melted. Did you get both the same codes back? Also, did you get a "generic" sensor that you had to wire in, or one made to fit that plug?

Reply 2 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155



1150 and 1155 are for bank 2 sensor 1. The one in the front of the engine. You replaced the wrong one.


Reply 3 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155




Quote:








Originally Posted by csaxon
View Post

1150 and 1155 are for bank 2 sensor 1. The one in the front of the engine. You replaced the wrong one.



csaxon: Crap - you mean Google lied to me this AM??? I thought you could believe everything you found on the internet!!



kminev: Sorry for the misleading information this AM. I agree you replaced the wrong one based on wrong info from autozone and internet.

Reply 4 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155



First of all a big thanks for everyones' quick answers very much appreciated....



So the sensors I replaced are: the one under the pass. seat and the one behind the engine.



From what I am reading from you replies you are suggesting that the sensor that actually needs to be changed is the one on the very front by the radiator, am I correct?



The codes I've got read bank 1 sensor 2 is that the front sensor.





Also after changed the two sensors I cleared the code the only code that came back is P1155





Can you guys help me conclude what to change I am $300 poorer so I guess will be shopping for the last sensor and the only one that is still old and changed.



Is ebay a good place/cheaper to find the sensor and what part number am I looking for to be certain I am getting the right one.



Thank you

Reply 5 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155



I replaced the sensors with bosh no the universal ones!

Reply 6 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155




Quote:








Originally Posted by bobflood
View Post

csaxon: Crap - you mean Google lied to me this AM??? I thought you could believe everything you found on the internet!!



kminev: Sorry for the misleading information this AM. I agree you replaced the wrong one based on wrong info from autozone and internet.



Auto-zones print out from the scanner suggested it bank 1 sensor 2 are they wrong ?

Reply 7 : Oxygen Sensor Problem P1150, P1155




Quote:








Originally Posted by kminev
View Post

Auto-zones print out from the scanner suggested it bank 1 sensor 2 are they wrong ?



Kminev: Yes, it appears that Autozone is wrong; and I found the same wrong information on the internet. The fact that you already replaced the two "Bank 1" sensors w/o fixing your problem supports that conclusion. Csaxon is correct - your codes indicate Bank 2 Sensor 1, which is the one in his picture. If you want to try and confirm this, call your Toyota dealer service department, give them the codes, and ask them what they mean.



If you want to go to the trouble, and you still have the old parts, you could take the new sensors out, return them to Autozone, tell them they did not fix your problem, and get your money back. Then get the sensor to replace Bank 2 Sensor 1 at the front of the engine.



Good luck, and let us know when you finally resolve this.

Transmission slipping issue???



Ive heard that this is common but I want to see if anyone else has experianced this before. I have an 09' TRD Sport curerently at 21000 miles. Ive had this problem since day 1 off the lot and is has not gotten any better or any worse, but just doesnt seem right. When I have driving and approaching a red light, I slow down... Then suddenly the light turns green before I make a complete stop... When i apply the gas again, my truck revs up to about 4-5k rpms before it "finds" a gear. I took it to the dealer and they told me that because our throttle is electronically controlled and does not have any actually cable linkage, that this is normal in all tacomas. It also happens after speed bumps an when I accelerate out of a right hand turn. It happens about 8/10 times when i get down to about 5-20mph, and then accelerate again. Any ideas. have you experianced this "slip" or "stuck in nuetral" feel with your transmission? Thanks in advance everyone!!

Reply 1 : Transmission slipping issue???



Has the dealer done the transmission TSB flash on your ECU yet? That should help with some of the gear "searching".

Reply 2 : Transmission slipping issue???



I Didn't know there was one. When did this release because my truck is fairly new. Do I just take it in and ask them to flash it then? Sorry I've never realized that there are tsb's that require attention that were not notified about.

I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



Ahh!! I cant find any! Tried the MTEC super white Silverstar ones and just today Nokya arctic white 7000k stage 2! All failed! They are no where white at all.



OMG! Can someone Help me look for a bulb that outputs a real white color? Any Suggestions please?



and Can I use a HID DRLs? (Just want to solidify what I heard about putting HID on DRLs/Highbeam ) I just want that WHITE LIGHT for my DRLS!



If nothing comes up, I have no choice but to splice my DRLs/Autolights. The very least thing that i want to do!



Thanks alot.

Reply 1 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



My Mtec super white are really super white.....I have no idea whatsup with yours.

Reply 2 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light




Quote:








Originally Posted by thestone11
View Post

My Mtec super white are really super white.....I have no idea whatsup with yours.



Nope.. When They are next to my HID low beams. they are NO where WHITE.. There is a hint of yellow and because of the blue tint that covers the bulb it kinda looks like a greenish yellow next to my HIDs

Reply 3 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



Try looking at luminics .





http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=900...286.m270.l1313

Reply 4 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



halogen bulbs can never be as whites as HIDs , try leds bulbs ????

Reply 5 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light




Quote:








Originally Posted by eagleone
View Post

halogen bulbs can never be as whites as HIDs , try leds bulbs ????



can they operate as a highbeam as well?

Reply 6 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



If you are familiar with the Kelvin scale, then 7000K should translate to a very bluish hue.



You might have to pay a bit more to get the color you're looking for.



Check out any of the following bulbs:



-Koito Whitebeam

-Raybrig White Blaster 4400K

-Raybrig White Sonic-S 4900K (might be a bit tinged)

-PIAA Intense White 4100K

-PIAA Xtreme White Plus

Reply 7 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light




Quote:








Originally Posted by emerson323
View Post

Nope.. When They are next to my HID low beams. they are NO where WHITE.. There is a hint of yellow and because of the blue tint that covers the bulb it kinda looks like a greenish yellow next to my HIDs






Reply 8 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light




Quote:








Originally Posted by emerson323
View Post

can they operate as a highbeam as well?



if you mean the leds im not sure most likely but i dont have much knowledge of them , you cant have hid DRL though . i would just say disable ur DRLs or disconnect the bulbs thats what i did , ur not going to find a "WHITE" light bulb for them

Reply 9 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



There is no way a halogen bulb can produce the white light you are referring to because DRLs operate at a fraction of the voltage that full high beams do. The filament just can't do it. Its like a normal incandescent bulb on a dimmer switch. At full voltage it can be made to appear whiter through glass tinting, but as mentioned it will never be the same when compared to those HID kit bulbs.



LED bulbs will appear white at nearly any voltage I suppose, but they will fall short of actually performing the way high beams should at night.



The light setups on these car is meant to be functional and actually perform very well if used for that purpose. Since you are seeking purely cosmetic lighting you will have to sacrifice real performance to get it.

Reply 10 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



do the fog light mod , disconnect your DRL bulbs and have hid fogs and then use them as DRLs , thats how im set up

Reply 11 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light




Quote:








Originally Posted by LeanBurn
View Post

There is no way a halogen bulb can produce the white light you are referring to because DRLs operate at a fraction of the voltage that full high beams do. The filament just can't do it. Its like a normal incandescent bulb on a dimmer switch. At full voltage it can be made to appear whiter through glass tinting, but as mentioned it will never be the same when compared to those HID kit bulbs.



LED bulbs will appear white at nearly any voltage I suppose, but they will fall short of actually performing the way high beams should at night.



The light setups on these car is meant to be functional and actually perform very well if used for that purpose. Since you are seeking purely cosmetic lighting you will have to sacrifice real performance to get it.



+1



sorry, but I am going to end your quest for white DRL's right now. the color temperature stated for the bulbs you are using is for 9005 bulbs full power. our car's 9005 bulb act as a day time running light as well as our high beams. if your high beams are on, then the lights will look how the manufacturer described, but when your running them low power for DRL's it'll look yellow because the bulb is underpowered. I wanted to do the same thing as you, but I realized my last resort was to just cut the wire. The car looks better without the DRL anyway and plus, being able to control your headlights is nice.



Give up

Reply 12 : I seriously Need a White DRLs/Highbeam light



delete, wrong thread.

Friday, March 25, 2011

ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



New to the forums and have a question about some struts I purchased and installed last week. After shopping around a bit for new struts (complete assemblies) for my 2000 V6 Camry w/165,000mi, I took a chance and bought some Autopart International "Pro-Struts" off of a seller on ebay. Price was about $150 cheaper for four than Monroe Quick Struts and the seller claimed they were made in the same factory (hmmm). The order went off without a hitch and the struts were delivered to AZ from FL in one week.



First alarm bell went off when I opened the first box and saw a tag on the spring warning me that the car might appear to sit higher after installation - that this was normal and that I should allow the springs to settle.



Second alarm bell went off when I realized the rear springs had about 2.5 more coils than the originals and the fronts had 1 coil more than the originals.



Well shipping these heavy pigs back to FL was not really an option and the car is just a driver anyway so I went ahead with the install. Besides, I had never seen the Monroe Quick Struts and for all I knew they were exactly the same (anyone?). Everything went pretty smooth although out of 6 weld nuts across the 4 struts for brake line bolts, etc, 4 of them were welded in just far enough off center of the hole that I couldn't thread the bolt in. A little work with a rat tail file solved the problem but irritating nonetheless.



Sat the car back down on the ground and sure enough, it looked a quite a bit higher than before. Keep in mind I had 165,000mi on the originals and it rode like it had Jello for suspension. I took it for a test run and found the ride to be much more controlled than before (duh) and thankfully, no weird noises (it's early yet) like some have reported in the past with Quick Struts. But the car sits about 1 inch higher in the front and 1.5 - 2.0 inches higher in the back. It's noticeably higher than any other 4th gen Camry I've looked at in the last week - especially in the rear. Not quite as queer as an old muscle car with air shocks, but close. And I would describe the ride as very firm, perhaps akin to the KYB GR2 some have complained about.



Just curious what others have seen for ride height with the Monroe Quick Struts and how it compares to the Pro-Struts.

Reply 1 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



Congratulations on riding a like-new car!!!

Here is my experience:

With struts I wouldnt trust any cheapo ebay brand. I changed my struts to KYBs couple of months ago.

Initially bought the ebay pro struts at a dirt cheap price but when opened I could see they would ride too soft and leak oil easily. Took a loss of 25 dollars for shipping them back but got peace of mind.

You dont work on struts very often,rather you DONT WANT to work on struts often.

Also dont need to change strut mounts on 95/96 camry's they dont have any rubber parts in there and are a waste of money changing them IMHO.

I paid $120.00 (fronts) and $100 (rears) all KYB GR2s.

Needless to say I am riding a new car again.

Reply 2 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



I just put Monroe Quick Struts on all 4 corners today, and am totally satisfied with the ride and handling. My car was riding too low and wallowed a lot before. It is now firmer and much better controlled. Although the rear does seem a bit higher than the front as my headlight beam seems to hit closer to the front end of the car. Might just need to be re-adjusted from when the suspension was sagging.

Reply 3 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



Gas struts would ride a little high when new. The same with Gabriel Ultras. But the height should be compared to spec and not old springs/struts. That way maybe the old combo was 1" too low, for example.



I wonder if these ProStruts are Reject Monroes? As in Monroe Outlet Stores. Maybe because the nuts didn't line up?






Quote:








Originally Posted by top_down
View Post

New to the forums and have a question about some struts I purchased and installed last week. After shopping around a bit for new struts (complete assemblies) for my 2000 V6 Camry w/165,000mi, I took a chance and bought some Autopart International "Pro-Struts" off of a seller on ebay. Price was about $150 cheaper for four than Monroe Quick Struts and the seller claimed they were made in the same factory (hmmm). The order went off without a hitch and the struts were delivered to AZ from FL in one week.



First alarm bell went off when I opened the first box and saw a tag on the spring warning me that the car might appear to sit higher after installation - that this was normal and that I should allow the springs to settle.



Second alarm bell went off when I realized the rear springs had about 2.5 more coils than the originals and the fronts had 1 coil more than the originals.



Well shipping these heavy pigs back to FL was not really an option and the car is just a driver anyway so I went ahead with the install. Besides, I had never seen the Monroe Quick Struts and for all I knew they were exactly the same (anyone?). Everything went pretty smooth although out of 6 weld nuts across the 4 struts for brake line bolts, etc, 4 of them were welded in just far enough off center of the hole that I couldn't thread the bolt in. A little work with a rat tail file solved the problem but irritating nonetheless.



Sat the car back down on the ground and sure enough, it looked a quite a bit higher than before. Keep in mind I had 165,000mi on the originals and it rode like it had Jello for suspension. I took it for a test run and found the ride to be much more controlled than before (duh) and thankfully, no weird noises (it's early yet) like some have reported in the past with Quick Struts. But the car sits about 1 inch higher in the front and 1.5 - 2.0 inches higher in the back. It's noticeably higher than any other 4th gen Camry I've looked at in the last week - especially in the rear. Not quite as queer as an old muscle car with air shocks, but close. And I would describe the ride as very firm, perhaps akin to the KYB GR2 some have complained about.



Just curious what others have seen for ride height with the Monroe Quick Struts and how it compares to the Pro-Struts.




Reply 4 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



They may ride firm when the strut rod movement is slow. But when hitting bumps and such, how much do they soften? As I asked in the other thread (linked below), KYBs send them up your spine, and that's why I don't spec them. I always like to test them over rail road crossings. If the struts (for daily driving) don't absorb most of the shock at most crossings, then IMO they suck.



http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=363463






Quote:








Originally Posted by Pvt-Public
View Post

I just put Monroe Quick Struts on all 4 corners today, and am totally satisfied with the ride and handling. My car was riding too low and wallowed a lot before. It is now firmer and much better controlled. Although the read does seem a bit higher than the front as my headlight beam seems to hit closer to the front end of the car. Might just need to be re-adjusted from when the suspension was sagging.




Reply 5 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



The Monroe Quick Struts use the "Sensatrak cartridge and they have a fairly good reputation. I haven't done rail crossings or highway expansion joints yet, can't do any real open road test as I put down a few while installing. But the sponginess (is that even a word) is gone and the car handles better than with the old units.

Reply 6 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



I'll be interested to hear how the struts work out for you. I was thinking of getting ProStruts/QuickStruts for my Camry but have just kept putting it off. I've bought stuff from AutoPartsDirect2you before and was pleased with the quality and service.



I did a bit of research and I found a company called CRS that makes Pro-Struts, at least thats what they call them. The link is here: http://www.crsautomotiveparts.com/www/prostrut



I don't know if these are the same as what you got, but they say each of the struts is stamped with the CRS part number so it should be easy to check.



Keep us posted.





.

Reply 7 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry




Quote:








Originally Posted by peshwa
View Post

Congratulations on riding a like-new car!!!

Here is my experience:

With struts I wouldnt trust any cheapo ebay brand. I changed my struts to KYBs couple of months ago.

Initially bought the ebay pro struts at a dirt cheap price but when opened I could see they would ride too soft and leak oil easily. Took a loss of 25 dollars for shipping them back but got peace of mind.

You dont work on struts very often,rather you DONT WANT to work on struts often.

Also dont need to change strut mounts on 95/96 camry's they dont have any rubber parts in there and are a waste of money changing them IMHO.

I paid $120.00 (fronts) and $100 (rears) all KYB GR2s.

Needless to say I am riding a new car again.



Thanks for the tip on not changing strut mounts for 95/96.



Would you recommend changing strut mount bearings ?

Reply 8 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



I will definitely post an update after I log a few hundred miles to let you know if any noises pop up. At $450 shipped for a set of four it was hard to pass up. As for the brand, these are not "ebay" brand but are distributed by Autopart International which from what I understand has been around many years and is now possibly a division of Advance Auto Supply. They seem to cater to independent garages mostly on the east coast. I too found some reference to a CRS brand - no idea if it's coming off the same assembly line but these struts are stamped and stickered Autopart International.



BTW, I don't think these are cheap junk, in fact I suspect they ride alot like KYB GR2's - too firm for many. Monroe rejects? Maybe. Or maybe made in the same factory but with a lower tech strut (like the GR2) installed in them.



To the poster who just put Monroe Quick struts on (or anyone else with recent "Monroe Quickstruts" on a V6 Gen4 Camry), could you measure the distance from the ground to the fender lip? Mine are 27" in front and 27.75" in rear. That's with stock 205/65R15 radials. It's not terrible but it does seem a bit high. Maybe I just got used to the old saggy look and most Camry's I've been comparing to since also need struts! I can say for sure that the old rears were not enough many times when I had two good size adults in the back seat!

Reply 9 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry




Quote:








Originally Posted by top_down
View Post

I will definitely post an update after I log a few hundred miles to let you know if any noises pop up.



Mine are 27" in front and 27.75" in rear. That's with stock 205/65R15 radials. It's not terrible but it does seem a bit high. Maybe I just got used to the old saggy look and most Camry's I've been comparing to since also need struts! I can say for sure that the old rears were not enough many times when I had two good size adults in the back seat!



Well my struts are original and the height is 27" in the front, 26" in the rear. The tires are the same as your. Looks like I got a saggy rear end.



Maybe time to change the shocks, eh......





.

Reply 10 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



Thanks for the measurements! I guess it was my imagination that the front was higher with the new struts.



I'm anxious to hear what Monroe Quick Struts end up with for these dimensions, especially in the rear.



If I had to do it again I might be tempted to spend the extra $150 and do four of the Monroe's to get a little cushier ride - but I haven't experienced both so I can't really judge. I will say that I really like the Quick Strut / Pro Strut concept - these were very easy to change out with just a floor jack, a couple of jackstands and a handful of tools + torque wrench. The biggest headache of the whole job was removing the back seat and rear parcel shelf to get access to the top nuts of the rear struts. Total job took about 5-6 hours for four struts for a first timer with no air tools. Note that this is an AZ car with no rusty bolts to deal with.



I had quotes from four shops ranging from $1300-$2000 and I did it for $450 (plus an alignment charge at some point soon) - gotta love that.

Reply 11 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry




Quote:







Maybe I just got used to the old saggy look and most Camry's I've been comparing to since also need struts! I can say for sure that the old rears were not enough many times when I had two good size adults in the back seat!



Quote:







Well my struts are original and the height is 27" in the front, 26" in the rear. The tires are the same as your. Looks like I got a saggy rear end.



Maybe time to change the shocks, eh......


Sagging rear and riding low or "bottoming out" with passengers in back would be weak springs not shocks. The springs support the weight, the shocks control the speed of the springs compression and rebound, dampening the up and down movement of the car body.

Reply 12 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry




Quote:







The biggest headache of the whole job was removing the back seat and rear parcel shelf to get access to the top nuts of the rear struts.


I tried to do it without removing the package shelf. I could only get an open end wrench in there. I have a little rattle over larger bumps so I have to go back in and re-tighten the top mounts in the rear. So much for taking the lazy way out. This time out with the shelf and doing it right, damnit.

Reply 13 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



Somewhere I thought I read that there was a change in Camry rear springs because of bottoming with people in the back seat - I wonder if my May 2000 car had the earlier versions. I will say when I pulled them out I was shocked how little spring there was from the factory but felt like the replacement springs maybe were a bit overkill. My muffler will thank me...



You probably already know this, but to get the rear parcel shelf out in addition to the third brake light I had to remove the two plastic panels (I think they're called sail panels) that are above each end of the parcel shelf. There are a number of clips holding those in, a couple of which are real buggers. The key for the sail panels and the rear parcel shelf is to pull out and towards the front of the car at the same time. I broke one post that has a metal clip on it on one side, and a plastic rivet on the other side. I also removed both the left and right seat belt retractor. Even then, I had to use a socket with a universal on one nut on the drivers side.



So can I talk you into measuring the distance from the ground to your front and rear fender lip with those Monroes? If they are closer to 27" in the rear with the Monroes and ride a little smoother I would say the extra $150 might be worth it to others. If they're 27.75" and feel a bit harsh to you over the railroad tracks then I'd say these are pretty similar (if not identical) struts.

Reply 14 : ebay "Pro-Struts" for 4th gen Camry



I'll measure it in a little while when I can get into the garage where the floor is level. But I have a 4 cyl. not a 6.

Recommended Toyota dealers in Georgia?



I'd like recommendations for the better Toyota dealers in Georgia, and which ones to avoid.



I am open to buying from any of the 35 dealers in Georgia, but of course prefer those closer to home in the Atlanta area. I'm looking for one that treats its customers right, is more open to offer discounts off of MSRP.



Thanks!

Reply 1 : Recommended Toyota dealers in Georgia?



I know it's a bit of a drive from where you are, but I would definitly recommend Keith Pierson Toyota Scion in Jacksonville, FL if you're looking for great customer service. My salesman went above and beyond his duties of selling me a vehicle and he even met me at the dealership on his day off when I had to get it serviced.

Reply 2 : Recommended Toyota dealers in Georgia?



Hello,

My name is Gary and I am the Parts Manager at Toyota of Newnan which is in Newnan, GA(about 30 miles south of the Atlanta airport). If you stop in or call me and let me know that you got my post from TN, I'll personally take care of you and you will not be disappointed. My staff and I love what we do and we treat all of our customers like they are guests in our home.



I look forward to hearing from you.

Gary

Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE























































I had the local Toyota dealer do a 4 wheel alignment on the car a couple of days ago. After a couple of days driving with the job 100% completed I noticed the suspension is significantly stiffer than original. With new factory springs and new KYB GR2 struts, the car is a tad stiffer than I personally would like.



Lower speeds under 50 mph - fantastic - speed bumps in parking lots, driving into gas stations, pot holes and normal pavement.



Highway speeds - smooth pavement and minor bumps are fantastic, however, on uneven surfaces, the ride becomes a tad jittery that I suspect would become somewhat tiresome on long trips.

Reply 1 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



Modestobulldog,



Thanks for posting the update. So did you buy a strut assembly that included the springs or not? If you did, does that save time on compressing them (and having to reconnect the brake lines? I am also confused as to whcih vendor you used to buy the parts and which struts you finally bought (front and rear). If I may ask, how much did you pay? Thanks.



Ron

Reply 2 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



1sttoyota is a Toyota Dealer out of Seattle Washington that has a internet business. I highly rcommend them for any factory parts. I ordered the factory Toyota springs, strut mounts and rubber spring insulators from them. Excellent prices, shipped fast and packed with lots of bubble wrap so parts arrive in perfect condiiton.



I ordered the KYB GR2's from PerformanceCenter. Don't buy anything from them, they are liars and you will be lucky if the struts arrive intact in the box. If your 99 CE is like mine, you have KYB's installed from the factory. The KYB GR2's are slightly stiffer than the factory Toyota (KYB) struts. You can rent spring compressors from Autozone for free or buy for $40 or $49 for Craftsman at Sears, just be careful and follow the suggestions in the Haynes manual. i am happy with my KYB replacement struts. Just don't order them from Performance center.



The only assemblies I found were from Monroe. I wouldn't install Monroe's on my grandson's tricycle. Of course, buying a assembly will save time, but you have limited selection of brands. Another option is to remove the struts from the vehicle and take them to a shop to replace the springs, you might save $$ and get a better quality strut.



On the rear struts, I could not figure a way to do the job without disconnecting the brake lines. To check yours, jump to Haynes section 10-10-4. disconnect the clip and check the mount. If you can romove the brake line without disconnecting the line, then by all means do so. I couldn't figure a way.



BTW, my post is to be used as a supplement to the Haynes manual. I mainly noted omissions or clarifications to the manual.

Reply 3 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



Thanks again for the information. I think it was ghost_ryder35 who recommended a web site called rockauto.com. I looked there and they had rear strut assemblies by a few manufactirers, including KYB. Here is a link:



http://info.rockauto.com/KYB/Detail.html?234059.jpg



Does that include the spring, or can you tell?



Ron

Reply 4 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



That is the strut only. Either use your old springs, mounts, boots & rubbers or order new ones. I just got back from having the car aligned at the dealer. I am 100% happy with the result. It rides & handles like a new car. Not bad for 216,000 miles.



Keep in mind, I wasn't necessarily looking for the cheapest replacement, I wanted better than the shop was going to do and thankfully, I was successful.

Reply 5 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



Updated original post for post 4 wheel alignment results.

Reply 6 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



.com can get eibach or intrax springs, as well as the kyb struts if you need them. If you have the money go with koni struts. Tire rack has H&R springs. There are a bunch of places to get springs as well as struts. I wouldnt buy monroe either.

Reply 7 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



I am done with this project. It was a learning experience. I did not want lowered springs and all I found aftermarket was lowering springs.



Are KYB GR2's sopposed to be firmer than the original KYB Nitrogen filled struts? It seems so to me.

Reply 8 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



I cant say that so much. Its more like they work better with performance springs than OEM struts do. If you have competition springs or sport springs than sure your ride will feel stiffer. The only way to tell would be to put them on with OEM springs and see.

Reply 9 : Strut Replacement - 99 Corolla CE



Thanks Modestobulldog for that informative post. I truly appreciate it. Elle